Day 5 Painswick to Middleyard

A more leisurely start today as the walk was shorter. Again we started in the rain but every time Stuart put his over trousers on the rain stopped so it wasn't long before the weather improved. This was the first and only day I had my waterproof on.

Approximately halfway

Today we passed the halfway point and as we had done the longest walk it felt good. The rain soon stopped and we saw plenty more wild flowers including this white orchid that I believe is a butterfly orchid.

We made our way to Haresfield Beacon but only had a short stop there as it was very windy. At least the wind was blowing the murky weather away and the views were getting better.

Along the way we passed another of Cromwell's seats. He seemed to like sitting some distance from the action well out of harm's way!

Cromwell Stone commemorating the siege of Gloucester 1643

Plenty of woods today but thankfully the paths were much better and the going was good. We passed several fields of newly planted vines on way down to the Stroudwater/Ebley Canal, the lowest point on the Cotswold Way.

At this point we had a choice of routes but opted for the longer one via the canal bank and then up on to Selsey Common.

Selsey Church

The views from the common were well worth the slog to get up there. 

Our B&B for tonight was Valley Views, a bungalow in Middleyard right on the trail, quite ordinary you would think until you got into your room. There was a small fridge for the milk, 8 choices of tea bags, 4 choices of coffee, hot chocolate, Ovaltine, bottles of water, slippers under the bed. In the huge bathroom 6 choices of Radox bath soaks, a basket full of small samples of shower gel, shampoo, body lotion and a box containing tooth brushes and tooth paste in a cellophane wrapper, nail brush, face cloths......you name it and it was provided including three fluffy towels and bathrobes. We couldn't believe our eyes. On top of that we had a lift to the local pub, the King's Head in King's Stanley. We did have to walk back but it didn't take too long.

Day 4 Dowdeswell Reservoir to Painswick

Well it was the longest day today in more ways than one. At least 18 miles to do before we reached our next goal. We set off at 8.30 after an early breakfast and for the first hour or so umbrellas were up as the rain came down gently. It was still quite warm though and not windy. The boring bit on the road back to Dowdeswell Reservoir soon passed and it wasn't long before we were climbing up on to the escarpment where the rain stopped and we had a coffee break at Hartley Hill overlooking Cheltenham.

Next on to Leckhampton Hill where the trig point was painted a delicate shade of green, and then past the Devil's Chimney, a limestone rock formation.

Then onwards to Crickley Hill for lunch passing on the way a new stately home. There's plenty of money in these parts.

We stopped for lunch at Crickley Hill country park and had a magnificent seat with a view, except it was still  so murky in the valley below I haven't got any photos. We could see the M5, a dry ski slope and the Malverns in the far distance and also May Hill that we kept in our sights for the next few days.

We still had 8 miles to do after lunch so we didn't linger for long and continued round the escarpment until we dropped down to a very busy roundabout near the Air Balloon pub. Thankfully once we had negotiated the busy roads it wasn't long before we entered woodland and we breathed a sigh of relief.....but not for long.

This was forestry commission territory and they were busy moving timber. The wide track was rutted in deep grooves and muddy and very hard to walk on. This went on for miles and slowed our progress. On the plus side a short shower while we were in woodland didn't reach us so we remained dry. We were very relieved when we left that wood behind us.

Next stop was Cooper's Hill where the cheese rolling used to take place until Health and Safety stepped in to stop it. We were hoping for a cup of tea before then but the cafe had now closed down so we pressed on up the hill and had a rest at the top.

More woods and then a golf course before we reached Painswick Beacon, not strictly on the route but you can't pass it by can you? We were getting a bit tired by this time.

Down in Painswick we found our B&B, a 400 year old cottage with stone flag floors, an inglenook fireplace and creaky floors and doors. We were greeted with tea and cake which was very welcome indeed.

After a reviving shower and a change of clothes we were ready for the local pub, the Royal Oak, and then even had the energy for a walk around the village.

Painswick churchyard has 99 clipped yews

This was the oldest post office in England but sadly has gone the way of many and has recently closed. The building dates from 1428.

Day 3 Winchcombe to Dowdeswell Reservoir and Charlton Kings

Another lovely breakfast at Blair House with an entertaining hostess before setting off for today's 14 mile walk to Dowdeswsell Reservoir and beyond to Charlton Kings on the edge of Cheltenham.

First stop Belas Knap ancient long barrow and then upwards to Cleeve Hill Common, a large area of unimproved limestone grassland.

Belas Knapp

 Today we would reach the highest point of the trail on Cleeve Hill where the views were still hazy but we did manage to see the steam train in the distance.

Even the cows were enjoying the view

Much of the trail at this point runs along the edge of the Cotswold escarpment with views over Cheltenham before dropping down gradually through the Prestbury Hill Reserve where there were reputedly six different varieties of orchid. We didn't have time to search for them all but we did come across a Roman Snail that was very big and quite rare.

Roman Snail

We had to walk 1.5 miles off the trail today to find somewhere to stay but just as we reached Dowdeswell reservoir we found a bungalow that served tea in the garden. The couple used to do B&B but had given that up now and just catered for thirsty walkers. It was very welcome indeed. There were a few spots of rain as we finished but they soon ceased as we walked along the busy road to Hilden Lodge in Charlton Kings. This turned out to be a first class B&B run by Wayne and Melissa. Wayne had a dry sense of humour and Melissa was an excellent cook. We had our evening meal there and were not disappointed. It was beautifully presented and value for money. A real chance to relax in style before the longest day.

Day 2 Broadway to Winchcombe

A longer walk in store for us today but only 12 miles and plenty of time in which to do it. Broadway hasn't many shops but this one in the centre catches the eye as you pass by.

 It was a lovely sunny day and my book describes this walk as 'rural England at its best with Stanton the quintessential English village'. None of us had heard of Stanton before but it was picture perfect with its thatched cottages, village green, no shops, just one pub nicely tucked away out of sight up a hill.

We could have stayed there in the peace and quiet for much longer but had to content ourselves with just a tea break before walking on to Stanway and Wood Stanway.

Stanway House

Near the water mill

Unfortunately we were there on the wrong day and everything was shut including the water mill and the Old Bakehouse tea room so we pressed on towards Hailes Abbey. After a very steep climb in the heat it was a relief to find a seat in the shade for lunch.
A brief stop at Cromwell's seat, reputed to be the place he sat to watch Hailes Abbey burn. We couldn't see anything for trees and it took a while to work out that it was probably the drifting smoke he could see.

Hailes Abbey

We didn't go in as you could see most of what was left of it from the path. As we crossed a field there was a screech from Margaret who dropped her hat in haste while trying to get her camera out to take a picture of a large snake that was crossing in front of us. If you had stretched it out it would have been at least a metre long.....honest! We didn't try stretching it out but chased after it trying to get a photo before it vanished into the long grass.

Snake in the grass

All afternoon we could hear the whistles from a steam train in the distance on the Gloucestershire Warwickshire Railway but it was still hazy and we only had tantalising glimpses too far away for a photo.
Next stop Winchcombe our final destination today.

We arrived in plenty of time for tea and toasted teacakes in the garden of Lady Jane's Cafe and a quick look at the High Street before walking up the hill to Blair House B&B. The owner had just received delivery of a new kitten that had gone missing so she was anxious we didn't leave any doors and windows open until she found it. It eventually turned up behind a picture frame on a shelf!

A special early bird meal at The White Hart Inn completed our evening followed by a look around the church yard as St Peter's at Winchcombe is renowned for its gargoyles that were very difficult to photograph.

Day 1 Chipping Camden to Broadway

Here we go again, Barbara, Margaret and Stuart set off on the train from Leeds to Stratford upon Avon to walk the 102 mile national trail, the Cotswold Way. We had arranged for a taxi to pick us up at Stratford, take us to Chipping Camden and then take our luggage on to our first stop Broadway. The journey was uneventful apart from having to change stations in Birmingham in quite a short space of time, but all went well and we duly arrived in Chipping Camden. This was to be a splendid walk with iron age burial chambers, hill forts, battlefields, old churches, thatched cottages, wild flowers, snails and snakes but more of that later.

The first day was a short 6 mile walk just to get us going. We spent some time trying to find the stone marker at the start of the trail until a local resident put us straight and we found we had already walked past it without noticing ! Well it was pretty uninspiring wasn't it.

The Beginning

Market Hall

Graham Green lived here

A gradual ascent across farmland lead us to our first view point on Dover's Hill. Although the weather was warm and dry the views were not very spectacular as it was very murky in the valley below.

We made our way down a long grassy track and then through fields of broad beans before ascending to Broadway Tower, the second highest point of the trail. Here we found an enclosure of red deer.

Broadway Tower

Red Deer

Down in Broadway we discovered lovely stone cottages and a wide street with grass verges which gave the village its name. 

It was very quiet as we wandered through looking for our destination, Brook House Guest House. This was run by a lady who lived in Bradford until the age of 18 and even knew Harden.......its a small world! She was a little eccentric and not a morning person. Breakfast 8 till 9 but please don't come at 8.00, so we compromised and went at 8.15.

The Crown and Trumpet served perfectly acceptable pub grub with a smile and after a wander around the village we retired early after a busy first day.